Bobs, bobs, bobs.

A client recently asked me for “more of a bob”.  I asked what she would like differently to improve the cut so that it matched the image in her mind.  Though you might not be familiar with the jargon, length, angle, shape and weight are essential in designing a look.  This is a good opportunity to discuss the different types of bobs that fashion the style.  A bob is anything worn just above the shoulders but with still enough length that the top portion (longest length) hangs over the shortest length at and around the nape (this is the area at the back of the neck).  Bob haircuts range from cut straight across (all one length) to highly angled with lots of layers (such as the trend-setting bob that Posh wore).

In essence, a bob is a one length look with variation on texture and layering.  Some bobs have lots of layers with shattered edges, while others are clean and classic.

In the photo above, I cut this look with layers throughout and gave the line a forward angle, making the back slightly shorter than the front.  I also used graduation (an angle somewhere in between, say, 30 and 55 degrees…45 is standard though) and a technique called stacking.  Some popular bobs are worn with a cut using about 90 degrees so that the back looks noticeably as if the hair was “stacked” atop each layer.  I, however, used minimal stacking only as a guide to start my internal layers, which I worked around the head shape.  This created a free flow of movement and texture through out what would otherwise be a “one-length” cut.

If you’ll notice, I actually added a custom double weight line there at the nape.  That is the line that the length and shape assume within the design.  This is something I like to do to create a bit more interest.

This cut is a good example of a classic bob, but with modern touches.  It is a look that is soft, yet has enough texture to be worn edgy if she were to decide to style it differently, such as turning the ends out instead of under.

Things to consider when discussing a bob hair cut with your stylist.

• What length are you looking to get.
• Would you opt for layers or keep it one length?
• Keep in mind the texture of your hair.  The client in this photo has some wave to her hair so we blow it out straight for a sleek look.
• How much time are you willing to spend styling your bob?
• The density of your hair matters a great deal depending on the look you are after.  For example:  If you have a ton of hair you might want to consider something with a lot of layers, texture or both.  The shorter you take your length, the bulkier it looks.  If you want it to look weightless and airy, you’ll need a lot of weight removed.
• Color plays a role here too.  In this photo, we opted for a natural look, using a tone on tone shade of brown.  The classic cut works well with the simple yet multi-dimensional hair color.  If you have lots of  layers and are looking for something a bit more dramatic, color is a good way to achieve this.  You could ask your stylist for some peek-a-boo panels.
• Fringe alone can completely change the look and feel of your bob.  Here we can see a strong and heavy fringe cut at the browline.  I softened the edges by adding some texture so that the look would remain cohesive.
• You’ll want to have your stylist assess the growth pattern of the hair at the nape of your neck.  It is common to have some of this hair shaved off.  I often create a new nape line by shaving off excess hair with my razor (especially if this hair grows upward on the neck which can inhibit the hair from laying flat against the neck).

It is a good idea to bring a few photos of cuts that you like and discuss the looks with your stylist.  Ask questions and be involved in the process.  Be sure to be clear about what you want before the cutting begins. Be aware of the shape of your face and how length, fringe, and layering will affect the outcome.  If you are someone who is used to throwing your hair back into a pony, a cut in which the hair hugs the sides of the face at the cheeks could drastically change the shape of your face.  Try to visualize your new bob.